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When summer cranks up the heat in the Sonoran Desert, you have two choices. Either embrace the sweltering temperatures or escape to higher ground. We chose the latter and finally made the trip to Mount Graham, a place that had been on our list since we moved to Arizona.
At over 10,000 feet, it’s the tallest of southern Arizona’s sky islands, making it one of the best places to camp when the desert floor feels like an oven.
The road to the top winds through more ecosystems than some entire states, and by the time you get there, the saguaros are long gone, replaced by pine trees, aspen groves, and crisp mountain air.
After one too many 100-degree days in Tucson, we packed up our off-road trailer and headed for the high country.
The Drive to Mount Graham
Mount Graham is about a two-hour drive from Tucson, which sounds easy enough until you factor in Interstate 10. That stretch of road is never boring in the ways you want it to be. Between dust storms, semi-trucks doing questionable things, and the occasional cow wandering where it shouldn’t, you have to stay on your toes.
Once you get through that, the real adventure begins.
The climb up State Route 366, also known as the Swift Trail, starts outside Safford, Arizona, and immediately reminds you why sky islands are a thing. One minute, you’re in the desert. The next, you’re winding through oak forests, then thick stands of pine, and eventually, alpine meadows that look like they belong in Colorado.
It’s not a drive for the faint of heart. Hairpin turns, steep drop-offs, and a narrow dirt road once you pass the pavement mean you’ll want to take it slow.
And if the road doesn’t convince you, the occasional shredded tire or abandoned bumper along the way might.
Finding a Campsite Near Riggs Flat Lake
Since it was our first trip to Mount Graham, we decided to take the road all the way up and camp near Riggs Flat Lake. It’s one of the few lakes in southern Arizona, and at 8,900 feet, it’s a solid bet for cool weather.
The lake itself is small, but it’s stocked with trout and popular for kayaking and fishing. That also means the campground next to it fills up fast. We took one look at the number of people packed into that space and knew it wasn’t for us.
Instead, we found a quiet dispersed camping spot just off the road leading to the lake. It had everything we wanted (shade, solitude, and no generators running at all hours.)
Wildlife Encounters and Rattlesnake Surprises
Setting up camp at higher elevations means trading the usual Sonoran Desert critters for mountain wildlife. We saw deer, wild turkeys, and more birds than we could count.
We also heard a rattlesnake.
If you’ve never heard a rattlesnake in person, it’s a sound that sticks with you. That dry, menacing buzz has a way of stopping you in your tracks, and that’s exactly what happened as we were scouting campsites.
At first, we thought the snake was in the brush somewhere. Then we spotted it. Coiled on the side of the road, rattling its tail and looking like it was considering launching itself at the Jeep.
Black-tailed rattlesnakes aren’t known for being aggressive, but this one was in a mood. We stayed safely inside the vehicle, snapped the best snake photo we’ve ever taken, and left it to be mad at something else.
Chilly Nights and Star-Filled Skies
For a place that was pushing 100 degrees at its base, Mount Graham got surprisingly cold at night. By the time the sun dipped behind the mountains, we were reaching for extra blankets and our propane fire pit.
The upside? Some of the best night skies we’ve seen in Arizona.
Mount Graham is home to the Large Binocular Telescope, one of the most powerful telescopes in the world. It’s there for a reason. The dark skies at this elevation are incredible, and we spent a good chunk of the night staring up at the Milky Way.
The Drive Down and an Interstate Standstill
After a few days of enjoying the cool air and peaceful campsites, it was time to head home. The drive down the mountain was just as scenic, but it didn’t take long for reality to remind us we were back in the low desert.
By the time we reached the base of the mountain, the temperature had climbed to 99 degrees. And by the time we hit I-10, traffic was at a dead stop. A motorhome had tipped over, and we spent an hour sitting on the highway watching people do increasingly questionable things to get around it.
Some guy skateboarded down the middle of the road. A few others decided the best course of action was to drive through a steep ditch and head back the way they came.
What We Learned About Camping on Mount Graham
Mount Graham turned out to be one of the best summer camping spots we’ve found in Arizona. It’s got cooler temperatures, incredible scenery, and plenty of space to find a quiet campsite. But there are a few things to keep in mind if you’re heading up there.
- The road is no joke. Once the pavement ends, it’s rough, narrow, and not the place for a low-clearance vehicle.
- The elevation makes a difference. Expect cooler temperatures, even in the middle of summer.
- The area is remote. There’s little to no cell service, and you’ll want to bring everything you need.
- Campground spots fill up fast, especially near Riggs Flat Lake. If you want more space and fewer people, dispersed camping is the way to go.
- Wildlife is everywhere. Keep an eye out for deer, turkeys, and the occasional angry rattlesnake.
If you’re looking for an escape from the desert heat, Mount Graham delivers. It’s high enough to keep things cool, wild enough to feel like an adventure, and just remote enough to make you forget the rest of the world exists. We’ll definitely be back.
Still Here? You Must Be the Human Equivalent of Well-Seasoned Cast Iron Pan.
Most people tap out early like tourists who underestimate Arizona heat. But not you. You’re built different. So why not pull up a camping chair with us on Substack?
