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Have you ever had a deep connection to a place that was lost to time, development, or nature’s unpredictability?
That’s how I felt when a rock slide closed the Apache Trail in 2019.
For five years, this 40-mile historic route through the Superstition Mountains was impassable, leaving my spouse and me wondering if we’d ever be able to experience it.
The loss felt personal for Arizonans, as though someone had severed the heart of our desert.
But after extensive repairs by the Arizona Department of Transportation (ADOT), the Apache Trail has, at last, reopened. And we finally had the chance to take this scenic drive from Roosevelt Lake to Phoenix.
I captured the experience in a YouTube video, which you can watch for a first-hand look at the peeper-pleasing views and bum-puckering moments.
Here’s why it was worth the wait.
A Road Carved Into History
The Apache Trail, or State Route 88, reaches deep into Arizona’s past. When you drive it, you’re tracing the same path stagecoaches and Native Americans used to cross the Superstition Mountains.
Originally a footpath used by the Apache, the trail later became an essential route for carrying supplies and workers during the construction of the Roosevelt Dam in the early 20th century.
Back in those days, the road was rugged, narrow, and dangerous. Today, despite some sections being paved, a few stretches will still challenge even the most experienced travelers.
We started our drive from Roosevelt Lake — the largest body of water located entirely within Arizona.
Built between 1905 and 1911, Roosevelt Dam provides flood control, hydroelectric generation, and water supply. Named for Theodore Roosevelt, the man himself opened it on March 18, 1911.
Winding our way around the dam and driving along the Salt River, we passed construction equipment and water trucks spraying the road. It may be reopened, but work continues.
Eventually, the paved road turns to dirt, and the real adventure begins.
Fish Creek Hill (The White-Knuckle Section)
The most infamous part of the Apache Trail is Fish Creek Hill, where the road hugs cliffs with steep drop-offs and wimpy guard rails. The narrow dirt road winds through sharp turns, giving you some of the best desert views — if you’re brave enough to look.
Heights aren’t usually a problem for me. But as I peered over the edge of the road across a vast swath of rugged desert, even I had to admit the bottom was a long way down.
Each time I rolled the window down to take a photo, the hot desert air rushed in, carrying with it the scent of dust and sagebrush. Every corner revealed another jaw-dropping view of the canyon below.
A single slip of one’s attention on this section of the road could quickly end in disaster.
Monsoon hit this area hard in 2019, and until recently, it was your turnaround point. An intense thunderstorm sent rocks and debris tumbling down the canyon walls, blocking the road and making it impassable.
It took ADOT five years to secure the funding to clear the debris and restore the road to safe driving conditions.
It’s easy to romanticize the ruggedness of the road, but the Apache Trail’s history is just as wild. Over a century ago, stagecoaches would have made this journey under far worse conditions.
As we made our way up the hill, I couldn’t help but wonder if the early travelers shared the same sense of awe and trepidation. Did they stop for a moment to admire the beauty of the landscape, or were they too focused on surviving the ride?
Either way, the connection to the past was undeniable, and that’s part of what makes this drive so special.
Keep your eyes open for desert wildlife. You might spot a bighorn sheep scaling the cliffs or a roadrunner darting across the road. And the plants in this area are just as fascinating, with towering saguaro cacti all over the landscape and clusters of ocotillo waving in the wind.
While the paved sections make the area accessible to more people, it also detracts from the experience.
It’s painfully obvious how close you are to Phoenix. Trash left by visitors dotted the road, and power lines stretched across nearly every view.
Apache Lake and Tortilla Flat (The Desert Oasis Part)
After the intensity of Fish Creek Hill, the road smooths out as you approach Apache Lake and Tortilla Flat.
If the phrase “desert oasis” could jump out of your brain and become reality, you’d probably get something that looks like Apache Lake.
Surrounded by towering cliffs, the dark blue water makes it the perfect spot to take a break, grab some photos, and appreciate the landscape.
Not far from Apache Lake, you’ll drive through Tortilla Flat, a quirky little outpost with a population of 6. Originally a stagecoach stop, it’s now very Tombstone-esque. A flood in 1942 and a fire in the 1980s damaged most of the original buildings, and the ones that stand today only look old.
You can lock yourself inside a faux jail cell, climb into an old timey coffin, or step inside the dollar bill-covered saloon for a prickly pear gelato.
Despite the spicy meatball-ness of the day (it was a piping 111 °F when we visited), there was no shortage of people out enjoying the sights.
I watched with envy as a family sat on the porch of the saloon licking quickly melting gelato. But I wasn’t brave enough to make my way through the crowd to get some, and instead retreated to my Jeep for a cold ginger ale.
Why Driving the Apache Trail is Worth Every Mile
The reopening of the Apache Trail is exciting for both its beauty and historical significance. From its roots as a vital path for Native Americans to its role in building the Roosevelt Dam, the trail offers a window into the past and a thrilling drive.
And now that it’s open again after a years-long wait, there’s no better time to see it yourself. Just be prepared for a few reminders that you’re not as far from modern life as you might hope.
Driving the trail for the first time reminded me how wild places connect us to history, nature, and to a slower pace of life that feels increasingly rare.
If you’re planning to drive the Apache Trail, start early to avoid the heat and crowds, and bring plenty of water. ADOT advises high-clearance vehicles for the full 40-mile trek, but except for a few rough patches, the road was smooth enough for any car.
So if you’re ready to trade the city skyline for soaring rock faces, the Apache Trail is waiting for you.
Just remember to keep a tight grip on the wheel and a watchful eye on the road!
